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Chanel Couture. F/W 2010.

Chanel’s fall couture collection was centred around an enormous sculpture of a majestic bronzed lion, captured mid-stance as it pawed around a massive opalescent bauble, perhaps foreshadowing the collection’s distinct fondness for elaborate pearl embroidery. The monument’s musculature was rendered in powerful detail; a proud tail caught at ease between sinewy legs that were drawn tight in restless anticipation, as if to suddenly seize forward upon a moment’s whim. A lustrous and thick mane cascaded into a crown of golden curls perched regally upon its stately brow; its powerful jaw left open, as if to invite the unheard echo of its wise and mighty roar.

The pieces emerging from beneath the effigy’s heavy paw reflected the kingly beast’s dignified aura in the sharp cut of their silhouettes and their poised sense of proportion. Cropped bodices grazed waistlines with 3/4 length sleeves while elongated skirts fell to mid-calf, resulting in a distinctly gauche outline that played with the mind’s perception of feminine form. The abrasive stance was offset by decidedly flirty accents, such as copious strings of beads, a profusion of glistening sequins, and a magnitude of fanciful tulle. Pearls were largely emphasized in sporty sheaths, made more ladylike by sensuous cutouts and a barrage of dainty strands draped gracefully across the body. Sumptuous lace hung in a tiered A-line skirt and revealed the intimate silhouette of elongated legs, while a gamine schoolgirl outfit was displayed with a sensuous body skimming high waisted skirt and a deceptively sweet black silk bow tied high at the neck.

An austere colour palette of rich maroons, navys, and matte nudes was complemented by lux gold adornments, such as the miniature lion head bust cinched around a midnight blue satin gown, or the assorted baubles liberally layered at the wrists in chunky cuffs and trinket chains. Notions of overt royalty were balanced out by elements borrowed from folk culture and lavish 18th century German porcelain decoration, such as boleros embroidered with intricate bohemian floral patterns. A subtlety pervasive military theme was incorporated with sharply tailored wool and tweed coats boasting double-breasted fronts, brass buttons, and glossy fur trim. Slouchy boots, unfussy hair, and scarlet stained pouts were the perfect finishing touches to this resplendent collection, which successfully wove together the fierce prowess of sophisticated style, the concentrated craftsmanship of artisan lore, and the dominant restraint of the proud and noble lion.

How dull it is to pause, to make an end,

To rust unburnish'd, not to shine in use!
Though much is taken, much abides; and though
We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are —
One equal temper of heroic hearts,
Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.

Lord Alfred Tennyson, Ulysses

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